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Post by auggie on Feb 22, 2006 19:43:44 GMT -5
Anyone,help my 40 day old M1,Jailing wont go in to 3rd ,or 4th gear,my timing is off or out,,1st and 2nd gear go but 2nd reves up high like to shift into 3rd, but then when I do ,power loss, boggs down, and will not hold,only does so when Im hauling down a big hill at 40MPH cause of gravity. This makes me soooo mad,its brand new!!!!!! They (RC) wont help at all. carb is totally clean,Im afraid i am gonna rattle every thing loose!.What about valves? Ive never ridden this bike in 4th cause there is NO power to do it !! Please help .it also takes 100 to 200 kicks to start the motor. Every one else is happy that theirs goes 55mph,and I know mine will but this is rediculous ! auggie
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Post by Skipper on Feb 23, 2006 13:53:00 GMT -5
Welcome Auggie. Sounds like a fuel flow problem. Start at the petcock on the gas tank, which has a clear bowl with a square bottom. Carefully remove the clear bottom bowl with a wrench on the square part. There will be a small white pick-up tube with a screen in the bowl. Look to see how the pick-up sits in the top of the petcock so you can get it back in correctly. Clean all parts and check fuel line for clogs or kinks. After all is clean, and back together, go to a hardware store (lawn mower section) or a motorcycle shop and get an in-line fuel filter. Cut the fuel line and install the fuel filter. There may have been some residue in the tank from shipping, and it will take a few tanks of gas to clean the tank. Check the petcock bowl regularly by sight, and change the in-line filter at least once a year. You may need to change the in-line filter a couple of times, till the system is running clean(when the residue quits showing up in the sight bowl). The in-line filter will help prevent carburetor problems in the future. Hope this will get you up to speed. Skipper
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Post by auggie on Feb 23, 2006 19:58:15 GMT -5
Im curious, why would my petcock/fuel valve be the problem when I get gas enough for 1st and second gear,and my carb is clean when I checked it? And can my gas cap be not vented enough? Or, could my battery be hooked up wrong ? As I connected 3 wires but did not know which one did what ? They don't tell you anything in the manual.But I will check the white plastic bottom of fuel valve to see if it is clogged.
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Post by Skipper on Feb 24, 2006 9:32:11 GMT -5
Fuel flow problems are the most common, and cheap to fix. To check the gas cap vent; unlock and loosen cap, but leave it on to prevent spilliage, and go for a test drive. If problem persists with a loose cap, then it's not the cap vent. It has been over a year and a half since I put the battery in my bike, but if the lights work and the bike runs, then the battery is probably hooked up right. Next thing to check is the spark. Even if the spark plug looks good, replace it. Sometimes plugs looks and spark ok with no load and when a load is applied the plug will fail. Try NGK C6HSA or CR6HSA (the R stands for resister) gapped to 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 in.). Torque spark plug to 12 N-m (106 in.-lb.). If you don' have a torque wrench, then sung it up good, but do not over tighten. The threads in an aluminum head will strip easily with too much torque. Skipper
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Post by Skipper on Feb 25, 2006 7:22:28 GMT -5
Auggie: Your carburetor choke may be on.
The choke is only needed for cold starts. To start when cold move choke lever up. Hold throttle slightly open and operate the kickstarter. When the engine starts, turn throttle slightly to keep it running. After the engine idles for approximately 30 seconds, push choke lever down to the closed position. Warm the engine sufficiently until the engine acclerates cleanly when the throttle is open. Be sure choke is off(down all the way) before driving. Skipper
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Post by auggie on Feb 25, 2006 18:18:22 GMT -5
:)Hey thanks -you know what ? I think you are right skipper,about the spark plug----- see the more load i put on the bike as in higher gears, the more power and spark is required, but as of now the bad spark plug,just give what little it has for all gears getting weaker as I shift,I'll try a new plug ,and let you know.
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Post by aeholton on Feb 25, 2006 21:15:00 GMT -5
I don't think it is your plug. Skipper was on the right track with a fuel problem. I would check the carb. Try removing the slider and see if the clip has fallen off the needle. Double check to make sure you are not riding with the choke on after it is warmed up. Is it pulling good and hard in 1st and 2nd or is it taking some time to climb in RPMs?
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Post by auggie on Feb 27, 2006 15:55:13 GMT -5
This COULD NOT MAKE ME ANY MORE ANGRY !!!!!!!!!!!! Its not the spark plug,I just put in brand new one,gap correct,carb is new like the whole friggen bike,gas is in the float bowl,carb is clean as a whistle,my gas tank has been filled and used 12 tanks,choke is always off,air cleaner foam is slightly oiled, and STILL SAME Damned thing!!!!! No power----------No 3rd gear or 4th -How do I know if its TIMING OR AIR OR GAS OR SPARK OR My TAIL PIPE OR RESTRICKTOR on PIPE,OR ELECTRICAL OR FUEL HOSE ?
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Post by Skipper on Feb 28, 2006 11:10:18 GMT -5
Sorry to hear you are still having problems. The engine is a direct clone of the Honda XR50 engine. There are several manuals that include this engine on the market.
Check the compression. It should be (140-170 psi). Skipper
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Post by auggie on Feb 28, 2006 17:14:27 GMT -5
Hi, just how do I check/measure compression ,I have an Auto zone store near me. If I take out spark plug,and look at top cylinder-at very top ----------Is that top dead center to check my fly wheel thru the top peep hole????There are some lines and then an arrow on the flywheel,and the arrow is visisble thru the hole,not the line , and that looks wrong. Could the timing be whats so slow for motor? How in the world could compression NOT be there with a BRAND NEW Friggin engine? ?
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Post by Skipper on Feb 28, 2006 20:50:35 GMT -5
Hi Auggie: The compression is checked with a compression gauge. Auto zone would have one. The "poor boy" way to check compression without a gauge is to place your finger over the spark plug hole and have someone operate the kick-starter. If it blows your finger off hard then the compression is probably ok. If you can hold your finger over the spark plug hole while the starter is being kicked then compression is the problem. Now your question about timming. With the spark plug out and look into the spark plug hole. That is the top of the piston that you see and not the flywheel. However you are right when you look at the piston through the spark plug hole and it is closest to the hole(top). The piston is at top dead center(tdc). These bikes have capacitor discharge ignition (CDI). Problems with CDI system are rare, but with a new engine anything is possible. I agree with aeholton and check the jet needle clip in the carburetor. Check out these videos. They show you how to remove and service a carb. video.google.com/videosearch?q=moped+expert+village Skipper
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Post by auggie on Mar 1, 2006 1:24:30 GMT -5
Hey, well I was refering to the left side of crank case that shows 2 caps that come unscrewed,one you can look right down on the flywheel,and the other is at the side to unscrew the nut for the flywheel,I just want to know if my timiing is off. I have taken the carb off and each hole ,jet ,pin,float,all is too clean ,cause its new.Each gear just gradually tries to climb,until 3rd and forget about 4th.bogging noise like its got no gas ,or not enough something????I still say gas is not getting to the engine,I bent the seat on the float in the float bowl but seems to flood it or it kills the motor every 1.5 miles ,then I sit for 3 mins, and starts back up,ready to go, Have no clue why I get no power!!!!!!!!
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Post by Skipper on Mar 1, 2006 6:27:31 GMT -5
Howdy Auggie: First buy a manual for the Honda XR50 engine. Refer to the "Troubleshooting" section. My typing skills are not up to copying all this information. Until you get a manual this is what mine says about ignition timing: All models are equipped with a capacitor discharge system(CDI). Ignition timing is not adjustable. Check the ignition timing to make sure all components within the ignition system are working correctly. Incorrect ignition timing can cause a drastic loss of engine performance and efficiency. It may also cause overheating. Before starting this procedure, check all electricial connections related to the ignition system. Make sure all connections are tight and free from corrosion and all ground connections are clean and tight. 1. Start the engine and let it warm up approximately 2-3 minutes. Shut off engine. 2. Remove left crankcase (alternator) cover. 3. Connect a portable tachometer following manufacturer's instructions. 4. Connect a timming light following manufacturer's instructions. 5. Restart engine and let it idle @ 1600-1800 rpm. Adjust the idle speed if necessary. 6. Aim the timing light at the index timing notch on the crankcase and pull trigger. The "F" mark on the flywheel should align with the index notch on the crankcase. Gradually increase engine speed. The "F" mark should move clockwise as the ignition timing advances. If the ignition timing is incorrect, troubleshoot the ignition system. 7. Turn the ignition switch off and disconnect the timing light and portable tachometer. 8. Install the left crankcase cover. Skipper
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Post by aeholton on Mar 1, 2006 9:24:37 GMT -5
auggie - did you ever check the needle/carb slide? What position is the little clip on? I don't think it is a compression problem. From what you describe, it definitely sounds like a carb/fuel problem.
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Post by Skipper on Mar 1, 2006 10:18:14 GMT -5
Auggie: Check the fuel fow out of the tank and through the fuel lines to the carb. To do this: turn petcock "off". Remove fuel line at the carb and put the line into a jar to catch the gas. Turn petcock "on". Fuel should flow free and strong. If not work your way back to the tank. You may need to remove the petcock from tank to clean the pick-up. Some paint overspray or something maybe clogging the petcock pick-up. Skipper
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